total : 986
aujourd'hui : 4
Articles
In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries in some areas of the rural United States, whenever a barn was needed, it was normal practice for the farmer to call together his neighbors and, over the course of a day, put up a rugged, spacious barn that would serve its owners for decades. The practice made a difficult and lengthy task easy and fast as it forged a bond among members of the community.
That practice disappeared long ago in many areas; the building of barns and houses became the province of professionals, the knowledge to do so confined to specialists. Unless you happen to be Amish, there's not much chance you've experienced a real barn raising in your life.
That is changing. With the recent popularity of a variety of shelter kits, amateurs again have the ability to create their own barns, storage units, garages, and even homes. Designed so that people with little or no carpentry skill can assemble them, kits come complete with directions, all necessary materials, and sometimes even the tools required.
A Kit for Every Need
Do you need a simple shed to store off-season items like bikes and skis, or utilitarian items like ladders and power tools? Maybe you need a way to keep your winter cordwood dry, or a full-size barn for horses, cows, or farming equipment. Whatever your needs, a growing number of companies offer kits which allow you to build your own structure. Tin Metal Container Plastic Cover Barns are available in a number of different designs, including post and beam and pole structures, and with a variety of materials.
Building your own barn or storage shed has a few distinct advantages; one obvious one is the price. Buying a kit with pre-cut materials allows you to put your own "sweat equity" into the project at substantial savings. Another advantage is the ability to adapt the design to your own needs. Many companies offer a variety of options with their designs; others will work with you to customize the design before they produce your kit for you.
Assess Your Needs
Before you settle on a barn or storage shed kit, figure out just how you plan to use your structure. Is it really for storage, or are you going to convert it into living space - a guest house or a home office? What sorts of utilities will you need in the structure - running water, toilet facilities, electricity? Do you foresee changing the building's usage at some point in the future? If you're storing large equipment, are the doors large enough so you can move the equipment in and out of the unit?
It's also sensible to discuss the amount of customer support provided by the company who supplies your kit. We've all had the experience of trying to put together a piece of furniture we bought in a kit from Target or K-Mart, and ended up nonplussed at the process - imagine experiencing that in the middle of building a barn! You need to know you have access to expert advice in case you run into trouble; you also need to be able to ask advice on how to prepare the site for the intended structure, and whether any heavy equipment will be needed in building the structure.
With a little foresight, some research, and planning, you can save a lot of money by building your own barn, garage, storage unit, or home. What's more, you get an additional benefit - the pride of workmanship you get from knowing that you built the structure yourself.
That practice disappeared long ago in many areas; the building of barns and houses became the province of professionals, the knowledge to do so confined to specialists. Unless you happen to be Amish, there's not much chance you've experienced a real barn raising in your life.
That is changing. With the recent popularity of a variety of shelter kits, amateurs again have the ability to create their own barns, storage units, garages, and even homes. Designed so that people with little or no carpentry skill can assemble them, kits come complete with directions, all necessary materials, and sometimes even the tools required.
A Kit for Every Need
Do you need a simple shed to store off-season items like bikes and skis, or utilitarian items like ladders and power tools? Maybe you need a way to keep your winter cordwood dry, or a full-size barn for horses, cows, or farming equipment. Whatever your needs, a growing number of companies offer kits which allow you to build your own structure. Tin Metal Container Plastic Cover Barns are available in a number of different designs, including post and beam and pole structures, and with a variety of materials.
Building your own barn or storage shed has a few distinct advantages; one obvious one is the price. Buying a kit with pre-cut materials allows you to put your own "sweat equity" into the project at substantial savings. Another advantage is the ability to adapt the design to your own needs. Many companies offer a variety of options with their designs; others will work with you to customize the design before they produce your kit for you.
Assess Your Needs
Before you settle on a barn or storage shed kit, figure out just how you plan to use your structure. Is it really for storage, or are you going to convert it into living space - a guest house or a home office? What sorts of utilities will you need in the structure - running water, toilet facilities, electricity? Do you foresee changing the building's usage at some point in the future? If you're storing large equipment, are the doors large enough so you can move the equipment in and out of the unit?
It's also sensible to discuss the amount of customer support provided by the company who supplies your kit. We've all had the experience of trying to put together a piece of furniture we bought in a kit from Target or K-Mart, and ended up nonplussed at the process - imagine experiencing that in the middle of building a barn! You need to know you have access to expert advice in case you run into trouble; you also need to be able to ask advice on how to prepare the site for the intended structure, and whether any heavy equipment will be needed in building the structure.
With a little foresight, some research, and planning, you can save a lot of money by building your own barn, garage, storage unit, or home. What's more, you get an additional benefit - the pride of workmanship you get from knowing that you built the structure yourself.
You need a strategy for using or disposing of your horse's manure. The proper management of manure is important to the health of your horse and your family. Needless to say, it may also be important in order to comply with state or county regulations. And if you have neighbors nearby, you will want to avoid any controversy with them.
An average 1,000-pound horse can produce 9 tons of manure waste each year. This is roughly 50 pounds per day. If you're going to store it, this translates to about 2-cubic feet per day or 730-cubic feet per year?just from one horse.
How the manure is stored and treated will have an impact on its value. A composition of manure and bedding is rich in nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. These nutrients can be returned to the soil and made available to pasture, lawns, landscaping, crops, and gardens.
Stalls and paddocks need manure removed regularly to prevent surface water contamination and to assist with parasite control and fly breeding. Stable flies commonly breed in the moist horse manure. So it makes sense if you want to keep the fly population down, manage your horse's manure.
The lifecycle of horse parasites also begins with eggs in the manure, which develop into infective larvae that later exist Color Pencil Tin Metal Case in your horse's pasture. Consuming grass, feed, or water contaminated with infective larvae will infect your horse. Parasites are one of the most significant threats to the health of a horse kept in small acreage areas and can cause irreparable internal damage. Manure management is an important part of controlling parasites.
Typical management of horse manure consists of removing daily and stockpiling for later use or spreading on cropland.
Manure that is spread daily should be thinly distributed and chain harrowed (dragged) to breakup larger manure piles and to expose parasite eggs to the elements, and to encourage rapid drying. Don't spread on pastureland that will be grazed by horses during the current year.
Alternatively, manure may be stockpiled and allowed to accumulate until it can be disposed, or composted for later use. A large storage area will allow for better flexibility in timing of manure use.
A 144 square foot enclosed space will contain the manure from one horse for a year. Over time, manure shrinks from decomposition and may accumulate to 3-to-5 feet in deep. Your storage area should be easily accessible for loading and unloading.
The location for the storage area is important in order to safeguard against surface and groundwater contamination. The storage area should be at least 150 feet away from surface water (creeks and ponds) and wells. A perimeter ditch dug around the storage area may be needed to prevent runoff. Covering the storage with either a roof or tarp can help prevent the contamination of both groundwater and surface water.
Some of the newer bedding products are more absorbent allowing you to use less bedding than traditional straw. Using less bedding means you have less waste to manage. Also, don't use too much bedding and only use the amount necessary to soak up urine and moisture in order to reduce the amount you have to manage.
Composting
Composting manure for 6 months to a year will yield a relatively dry product that is easily handled and reduces the volume of the manure by as much as 40 to 60 percent. This also kills fly eggs, larvae, pathogens and weed seeds.
Aeration will speed the composting process. The rate of decomposition is dependent on how often the pile is turned. An alternative to turning the pile is to insert perforated PVC pipes into the pile to provide aeration. The composting process will take a little longer, but is much less labor intensive. A slow decomposition rate is usually due to a lack of aeration.
The compost pile should remain moist. It may need to be watered or covered to maintain moisture. If small moisture droplets appear when squeezing it in your hand, then the moisture content is sufficient. Compost should be sweet smelling. If an unpleasant odor is coming from the pile, it is too wet and should be kept under a cover to help keep the moisture out.
Composted manure acts as a slow release fertilizer and is a great soil supplement that can be spread on pastures. Manure that has not been composted should be spread only on cropland or other ungrazed, vegetated areas.
Hauling Off-Site
Landfills should only be used if no other option exists. And note, not all landfills will accept manure. Remember, your horse's manure is a valuable resource and is best used for recycling as opposed to disposing.
There are some refuse/waste companies who specialize in hauling away manure as well as recycle it. This is a good alternative for people who do not have adequate land where manure can be stored or spread. These refuse companies will provide a dumpster and will schedule regular pickups based on your needs.
An average 1,000-pound horse can produce 9 tons of manure waste each year. This is roughly 50 pounds per day. If you're going to store it, this translates to about 2-cubic feet per day or 730-cubic feet per year?just from one horse.
How the manure is stored and treated will have an impact on its value. A composition of manure and bedding is rich in nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. These nutrients can be returned to the soil and made available to pasture, lawns, landscaping, crops, and gardens.
Stalls and paddocks need manure removed regularly to prevent surface water contamination and to assist with parasite control and fly breeding. Stable flies commonly breed in the moist horse manure. So it makes sense if you want to keep the fly population down, manage your horse's manure.
The lifecycle of horse parasites also begins with eggs in the manure, which develop into infective larvae that later exist Color Pencil Tin Metal Case in your horse's pasture. Consuming grass, feed, or water contaminated with infective larvae will infect your horse. Parasites are one of the most significant threats to the health of a horse kept in small acreage areas and can cause irreparable internal damage. Manure management is an important part of controlling parasites.
Typical management of horse manure consists of removing daily and stockpiling for later use or spreading on cropland.
Manure that is spread daily should be thinly distributed and chain harrowed (dragged) to breakup larger manure piles and to expose parasite eggs to the elements, and to encourage rapid drying. Don't spread on pastureland that will be grazed by horses during the current year.
Alternatively, manure may be stockpiled and allowed to accumulate until it can be disposed, or composted for later use. A large storage area will allow for better flexibility in timing of manure use.
A 144 square foot enclosed space will contain the manure from one horse for a year. Over time, manure shrinks from decomposition and may accumulate to 3-to-5 feet in deep. Your storage area should be easily accessible for loading and unloading.
The location for the storage area is important in order to safeguard against surface and groundwater contamination. The storage area should be at least 150 feet away from surface water (creeks and ponds) and wells. A perimeter ditch dug around the storage area may be needed to prevent runoff. Covering the storage with either a roof or tarp can help prevent the contamination of both groundwater and surface water.
Some of the newer bedding products are more absorbent allowing you to use less bedding than traditional straw. Using less bedding means you have less waste to manage. Also, don't use too much bedding and only use the amount necessary to soak up urine and moisture in order to reduce the amount you have to manage.
Composting
Composting manure for 6 months to a year will yield a relatively dry product that is easily handled and reduces the volume of the manure by as much as 40 to 60 percent. This also kills fly eggs, larvae, pathogens and weed seeds.
Aeration will speed the composting process. The rate of decomposition is dependent on how often the pile is turned. An alternative to turning the pile is to insert perforated PVC pipes into the pile to provide aeration. The composting process will take a little longer, but is much less labor intensive. A slow decomposition rate is usually due to a lack of aeration.
The compost pile should remain moist. It may need to be watered or covered to maintain moisture. If small moisture droplets appear when squeezing it in your hand, then the moisture content is sufficient. Compost should be sweet smelling. If an unpleasant odor is coming from the pile, it is too wet and should be kept under a cover to help keep the moisture out.
Composted manure acts as a slow release fertilizer and is a great soil supplement that can be spread on pastures. Manure that has not been composted should be spread only on cropland or other ungrazed, vegetated areas.
Hauling Off-Site
Landfills should only be used if no other option exists. And note, not all landfills will accept manure. Remember, your horse's manure is a valuable resource and is best used for recycling as opposed to disposing.
There are some refuse/waste companies who specialize in hauling away manure as well as recycle it. This is a good alternative for people who do not have adequate land where manure can be stored or spread. These refuse companies will provide a dumpster and will schedule regular pickups based on your needs.
Christmas is busy, fun, exciting, and sentimental. We love it all -- all but the part when we have to clean up and put everything away.While it may be tempting to just throw everything into boxes and worry about sorting it out next year, you'll be sorry when a precious Christmas decoration or ornament gets lost or broken.
Following these 10 tips will help you?A. Save time custom tin storage box by getting all your Christmas decorations organized so it's quick and easy to find them next year.B. Save space by using the right kind of boxes that can be easily stacked and organized.
C. Save money by storing your Christmas lights and decorations in a manner that preserves their quality and extends their life span.
Use Clear Plastic Storage Containers - These are great because you can see the contents without having to spend time labeling each box. Plus the plastic helps protect from moisture better than cardboard. When stacking, be sure to place the largest and heaviest boxes on the bottom and smaller boxes on the top.
Box the Beads - Pack the beads in small boxes such as plastic shoeboxes. If you use many strands of beads, larger boxes could become too heavy. To keep the beads from becoming tangled, place individual strands in baggies. If you prefer, you can wrap each strand around empty paper towel rolls and tape the ends.
Don't Dog Pile the Christmas Lights - Don't stack too many lights in the same box. The box will become too heavy and the lights on the bottom could be damaged. Lights can easily become tangled so individual strands of lights should be bagged separately or Save Space with Re-Shapeable Decorations - Bows made of wired ribbon can be flattened and reshaped next year. Wired ribbon garlands and streamers can be tightly rolled. They don't need to be flattened unless you need to conserve space.
Don't Crush Your Wreaths - Wreaths can be stacked in larger boxes but each wreath should be wrapped with bubble wrap. If they aren't wrapped then they shouldn't be stacked. Bubble wrap can be purchased where office supplies are sold. Wreath boxes can also be purchased and are readily available on the Internet and in stores.
Wrap Christmas Ornaments Properly - Ornaments should be individually wrapped in white tissue paper or where greater protection is needed, wrap in bubble wrap. Since most ornaments are lightweight they can be stored in large boxes. If you still have the original boxes the ornaments came in, then store them in these and then place them in the storage container.
Protect Christmas Decorations from Moisture - If you live in a humid climate using plastic containers may not be enough to protect from moisture. Place packets of silica gel in each container to avoid damage from humidity. Silica gel can be purchased at arts and craft stores. If you cannot find individual packets, you can make your own by wrapping several tablespoons of silica gel in white tissue paper and securing with tape. Several packets should be placed throughout the box.
Guard Against Temperature Extremes - Delicate decorations such as ornaments made with photos or wax can be temperature sensitive. Store them in a climate-controlled area or they could deteriorate, melt or stick together.
Avoid Box Identity Loss - Attach a red ribbon or tag to each Christmas storage box. This will make them easy to identify next Christmas if they have been stored with other boxes unrelated to Christmas decorations.
Toss the Trash - Some people have a tendency to just ?hang onto stuff? in hopes that they'll find a use for it later. Don't waste space by holding onto old ornaments you know you'll never use again (unless of course it has some sentimental significance). Just toss out the trash.
A final note: You may also want to consider Christmas ornament boxes and wreath boxes for especially fine ornaments and wreaths instead of clear storage containers. They are available in stores and on the Internet. They are very convenient and some are even acid free for even greater protection for your fine collectables. They are more expensive, but for high quality, valuable ornaments this may be a worthwhile investment.
A little organization today will make you feel like a Christmas decorating pro next year. Happy un-decorating!
Following these 10 tips will help you?A. Save time custom tin storage box by getting all your Christmas decorations organized so it's quick and easy to find them next year.B. Save space by using the right kind of boxes that can be easily stacked and organized.
C. Save money by storing your Christmas lights and decorations in a manner that preserves their quality and extends their life span.
Use Clear Plastic Storage Containers - These are great because you can see the contents without having to spend time labeling each box. Plus the plastic helps protect from moisture better than cardboard. When stacking, be sure to place the largest and heaviest boxes on the bottom and smaller boxes on the top.
Box the Beads - Pack the beads in small boxes such as plastic shoeboxes. If you use many strands of beads, larger boxes could become too heavy. To keep the beads from becoming tangled, place individual strands in baggies. If you prefer, you can wrap each strand around empty paper towel rolls and tape the ends.
Don't Dog Pile the Christmas Lights - Don't stack too many lights in the same box. The box will become too heavy and the lights on the bottom could be damaged. Lights can easily become tangled so individual strands of lights should be bagged separately or Save Space with Re-Shapeable Decorations - Bows made of wired ribbon can be flattened and reshaped next year. Wired ribbon garlands and streamers can be tightly rolled. They don't need to be flattened unless you need to conserve space.
Don't Crush Your Wreaths - Wreaths can be stacked in larger boxes but each wreath should be wrapped with bubble wrap. If they aren't wrapped then they shouldn't be stacked. Bubble wrap can be purchased where office supplies are sold. Wreath boxes can also be purchased and are readily available on the Internet and in stores.
Wrap Christmas Ornaments Properly - Ornaments should be individually wrapped in white tissue paper or where greater protection is needed, wrap in bubble wrap. Since most ornaments are lightweight they can be stored in large boxes. If you still have the original boxes the ornaments came in, then store them in these and then place them in the storage container.
Protect Christmas Decorations from Moisture - If you live in a humid climate using plastic containers may not be enough to protect from moisture. Place packets of silica gel in each container to avoid damage from humidity. Silica gel can be purchased at arts and craft stores. If you cannot find individual packets, you can make your own by wrapping several tablespoons of silica gel in white tissue paper and securing with tape. Several packets should be placed throughout the box.
Guard Against Temperature Extremes - Delicate decorations such as ornaments made with photos or wax can be temperature sensitive. Store them in a climate-controlled area or they could deteriorate, melt or stick together.
Avoid Box Identity Loss - Attach a red ribbon or tag to each Christmas storage box. This will make them easy to identify next Christmas if they have been stored with other boxes unrelated to Christmas decorations.
Toss the Trash - Some people have a tendency to just ?hang onto stuff? in hopes that they'll find a use for it later. Don't waste space by holding onto old ornaments you know you'll never use again (unless of course it has some sentimental significance). Just toss out the trash.
A final note: You may also want to consider Christmas ornament boxes and wreath boxes for especially fine ornaments and wreaths instead of clear storage containers. They are available in stores and on the Internet. They are very convenient and some are even acid free for even greater protection for your fine collectables. They are more expensive, but for high quality, valuable ornaments this may be a worthwhile investment.
A little organization today will make you feel like a Christmas decorating pro next year. Happy un-decorating!